We left the Aeolian Islands on July 23 and made way back to the Italian coastline. There was no wind so we mototed all day in the heat allowing skipper to repair 2 winch handles along the way. We stopped along the way for a swim in the Tyrrhenian Sea with water temperature 29 degrees!
Because of our battery problems, we were forced to stay in more marinas than we hoped. However, as we went up the coast we noticed that there were not many protected anchorages in any event. Most were exposed to the north and west, the prevailing winds. Because we were now in the heart of the Italian vacation summertime, we needed to book our stays at marinas 3-4 days in advance, especially on the Amalfi coast, when previously, only the day before or that day was needed to book a spot. We were generally successful in finding a spot but sometimes we had to move onto the next harbour to find a spot.
We stayed at the marina in Cetraro [it was all fenced in for some reason] where a helpful neighbour gave advice on anchorages and marinas along the Italian coast and booked us a berth in Pisciotta (Italian only speaking port).
Next stop was Scario which was busy with boats. We were first directed to a small space but after a couple of attempts, we told them it was too small and we moved onto a larger spot. Harbourfront was busy with Italian tourists.
This coastline is very rugged with lots of small boat activity around the caves and small calas.
Pisciotta is a small town clinging to the cliffs overlooking the sea. The harbour was also small and very shallow requiring the center board up all the way. We med moored against the breakwall. We walked up the steep hill to the town in the extreme heat. It was not a welcoming town but very quaint with narrow windy streets and many cats. It also had a PA system through the town streets where a local politician was droning on. Quite strange. We had a good dinner at the top overlooking the harbour at Tre Gufi (3 Owls).
We moved onto Agropoli where we picked up some fuel ($1.65/litre) before making our way over to the marina dock for a tight squeeze between 2 large yachts. We had our first cuoppo (Italian fresh fish and chips) at a take out restaurant Cuopperia Tuffiamoci Qui. Deeelish.
Next day was a good sail despite low winds. We used Pink Panther and the mainsail to get 5 kt speed. We stopped at the picturesque town of Amalfi nestled in the cliffs. Beautiful! We moored with our stern against a tall cement wall and used a large marina passerelle to exit the boat with the dinghy moved to the bow. We walked into town. Like all of the places along the Amalfi coast, it was very busy. Lemons were abundant and were the size of grapefruit. The lemon Granitas were most refreshing in the hot afternoon. We also had our first taste of Limoncella. Nice dinner at Taverna Buonvicino.
