Summer 2021 – Stretto di Messina

We waited 3 nights in Roccella for the right weather to go through the Strait of Messina (a narrow crossing with strong currents between Sicily and Italy). We set out on July 19 at 0458 (it was already hot) for a 12 hour trip to ensure we crossed the strait near slack water and during daylight. Unfortunately we motored the entire way with no wind until we rounded Riace Capo where we had 15-18 on the nose. The wind was great for the kiters who were surfing back and forth across the strait but it was of no assistance to us.

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The entrance to the strait was very busy with crossing ferries between Sicily and Calabria. The ports on each side had a number of privately owned ferries which were on different schedules and destinations. That made it difficult to avoid them. We arrived at narrowest point 45 minutes before slack water and the crossing went well.

According to Greek mythology, mythical sea monsters named Scylla and Charybdis were on opposite sides of the strait. Because the strait is so narrow, they were considered an inescapable threat. Scylla was a six headed monster on the Calabrian side who plucked sailors off boats which passed too close but if passed too close to the Sicilian side, Charybdis was there, who was a whirlpool monster that swallowed ships. In Homer’s book, the Odyssey, Odysseus was advised to sail by Scylla and lose only a few sailors, rather than risk losing his ship to Charybdis. We took Homer’s tip and even managed to escape the clutches of Scylla.

Once we passed through the strait we were intrigued with the traditional swordfish fishing boats. Very strange looking boats. They have a mainmast about 25 metres high, at the top of which is one of the crew looking out for swordfish which at times swim near the surface. The boat also has a very long bowsprit where the fishermen perched ready to hurl harpoons with a long fishing line to catch the fish. Fresh swordfish in the summer is always on the menu in Sicily and Italy.

Swordfish boat in action

We settled into our mooring in Scilla, Italy not far from the Strait. No marina at Scilla. There is only a small harbour for the local fishing boats. We used a mooring ball and tied off the bow and stern for 50 euros but hey they did collect garbage as part of that fee and provided a water taxi to and from the town.

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Scilla is a quaint town which climbs up the step rock wall above the harbour and also has a beach front area for tourists with restaurants . We took a lift up to the main town for supplies where there was a beautiful view of the sea and The Ruffo Castle, a fortress built by the Dukes of Calabria. This is also the traditional site of the sea monster Scylla of Greek mythology.

We walked down with supplies and had dinner at a restaurant clinging to the rock wall on the water. Charlie had swordfish, of course. While eating we watched one of residents in a neighbouring house go snorkeling and later came back with octopus and fish for their dinner.

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