Fall 2019 Cote d’Azur – Marseille East to Monaco

October 8 – 31, 2019

La Grande Motte


October 8 – 12, 2019

Chinook spent the summer in La Grande Motte. We arrived on October 8, splashed on the 9th, spent several days taking inventory of the warranty work done (and not done) and worked through the long checklist prepping Chinook for the trip.

Marseille

October 14 – 17, 2019

Winds were strong and seas were high as we left La Grande Motte. We spent the first night in Port Napoleon and met up with friends Bob and Joanna (Flying Fox). Weather the next day was again very sporty as we made our way to Marseille where we spent 3 nights in the Vieux Port Marseille (SNM docks).

We enjoyed Marseille – the fish market, another grand Notre Dame Cathedral, Le Panier, a great restaurant La Boite a Sardine and the France/Turkey soccer game made for good entertainment one evening at the bar across from our boat.

Port Miou and Cassis

October 17 – 21, 2019

We fueled up at Marseille and made our way to Port Miou which is in a long calanque close to Cassis. The strong SE winds prevented us from entering other calanques close by. We used 2 mooring balls due to the strong wind and stern tied to the rock. Beautiful spot but the rolling waves made for a very uncomfortable stay.

Strong winds continued as we left the next day for Cassis (just around the bend). We spent 3 nights (one longer than expected) due to the weather. Chinook was close to the harbour entrance which made for rolling waves. It was a challenge maneuvering the narrow passerelle (made from old canal fender boards) from Chinook to the dock.

The small town of Cassis is a gem with buff and rose coloured houses crammed onto the waterfront overlooking the harbour and a restored 14th century castle on a rocky bluff overlooking the town.

Port de Porquerolles

October 21 – 24, 2019

We had a one day window in between the strong winds to reach our next destination. We decided to sail to Port de Porquerolles (one of the Iles d’Hyeres). We arrived in calm water and chose a spot along the quai before many other boats arrived to wait out the storm. We spent 3 nights in Porquerolles with constant wind and gusts up to 54 knots. The whistling wind through all the rigging on the boats was deafening.

We did not explore the island, apart from the small town near the harbour, since we did not want to leave the boat too long in the strong winds. The island had a Caribbean look with palm trees, one story buildings and open air bars and restaurants. Once in town the wind was not noticeable but a stark contrast when you went back to the port. Only late on the 3rd night did the wind die and the next morning we made an early departure onto the calm seas to Saint-Tropez.

Saint-Tropez

October 24 – 26, 2019

We had light winds all the way to Saint-Tropez but the large spread out rolling waves were not to Charlie’s liking. We docked in the new part of the harbour for only $95E per night. The old part of the harbour was $250E per night and you had to pay for showers. Mon dieu!

Little did we know our arrival coincided with the ‘Grande Braderie de Saint-Tropez’. This is the French version of Black Friday. Hordes of people filled the narrow streets as stores were clearing their stock for the season. Despite this, we found Saint-Tropez to be a wonderful quaint town. We walked up to the Citadel (great views), visited the Marine museum, tasted the famous La Tarte Tropezieme, ice cream at Barbarac and dined at La Port des Anges on a narrow street a step away from Notre Dame d’Assumption.

Cannes

October 26 – 28, 2019

A great day sailing to Cannes. Warm, sunny and close-hauled. The port was full – we lucked out with one of the last spots on the floating dock. Capitainerie was very helpful and only $47E for 2 nights! Big change from Saint-Tropez.

In port was another ‘Chinook’ – a beautiful classic 18 meter sailboat from NYYC. She was docked next to Manitou used by JFK (and Marilyn Monroe) during his presidency.

We enjoyed Cannes – the daily market was plentiful, we toured the old town, strolled the beach, walked up to the castle (great views) and walked the promenade with high end shops. Charlie was thankful it was Sunday so the shops were closed.

Nice

October 28 – 31, 2019

Nice is the capital of the Riviera and the second largest city on the French Mediterranean coast.  We spent 3 days exploring this great city.

We arrived to find only a few visitor spots available in the old harbour. An octopus greeted us on the rock wall where we stern tied.  Another passerelle challenge! Our dock neighbour was born and raised in Edmonton – small world.

We had fun exploring the old town, castle hill, Musee de Chagall, walking the Pomenade des Anglais and rocky beach, stopping for oysters and wine along the way. 

Next stop – Monaco!